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Super cool work! Stuff like this can be forgotten so easily.

One of my favorite parts of living in SF were these dumb billboards. They’re so bad - though this one is a bit more dystopian than most.

It’s so frustrating, because this is an iOS bug, and not an inherent problem with wefwef. Hoping they can find a workaround though!

Great Firefox theme!

ooooooh right in the middle of my moving to open source software arc too, could be fun

The original intention was for there to be a second, wireless compute device. Jony Ive ended up vetoing that before he left Apple. I would’ve loved to see what the headset would’ve been in that form.

Yeah, I’m much more focused on actually solving the SUA issue, especially since the resale value on this car is fucked lol it’s not going anywhere anytime soon.

It definitely is all so very strange.

Right, the brownout in the electrical system isn’t ideal, but the unintended acceleration seems to be caused by the ADC attempting calibration when the voltage is near-zero. I have to wonder if there’s work that could be done in firmware on the inverter side or on the ADC side to detect and not re-calibrate during those conditions. The PDF specifically calls this out as a potential recall solution.

It wouldn’t solve the underlying electrical flaw, but could solve the bad signals getting generated and killing people. It’s also possible this flaw causes issues in other systems that haven’t been discovered yet. Much research to be done, I suppose.

I’d love a new inverter that doesn’t do this, but that seems… unlikely. Let me wish it’s easy to solve :P

Yeah, I was figuring that the new 48v system would require redesigned inverters that would presumably not have this issue again (but you know, it’s Tesla, so) but was probably vague.

Anyone want to develop a reasonably affordable EV that doesn’t have a major problem at some point in its lifetime? (I’m still salty at LG and GM for my Bolt’s fiasco lol)

If there’s any upside, at least finally regulators can force Tesla to solve the problem - hopefully through firmware for older cars like mine.

Wow. I’d trusted NHTSA and the researchers who had looked over this previously. Tesla needs to get a software patch out for this calibration process immediately before I stop driving my car.

Given that it’s an issue with the 12v systems I’d be inclined to wonder if newer cars with the lithium-ion low-voltage battery don’t have this issue?

I wish they weren’t so expensive, such a versatile vehicle.

Hell yes. I’m not joking when I say 80% or more of EVs in Kentucky are Teslas. There’s barely any CCS infrastructure, so the sooner we can move over to NACS the better.

Likewise! The order of operations is just slightly different:

Most Cars: Open Car > Pop Hood > Jump/Replace Battery > Drive Car

Tesla: Pop Hood > Charge/Replace Battery > Drive Car

If you know this can happen to your car and are prepared for it (the equivalent of being ready to get a jump in a gas car) it’s not a big deal. Of course, many people opt to just contact Tesla roadside and have them handle it, which is completely fine.

Different cars function differently! EVs from other manufacturers are not universally immune from this either. Meanwhile Mercedes literally tells you not to open the hood on their EVs, much less replace a dead 12v battery.

Some of it is that a 12v failure is much more of a pain in an EV, since you need low-voltage to trigger the high-voltage battery contactors in order to recharge the low-voltage battery. Many people don’t know this, and then panic when their car appears very broken. Some non-Tesla EVs will throw downright bizarre errors and lights at you in this condition.

I’m optimistic we’ll all learn about EVs and their common failure modes like we have with ICE vehicles over time.

Ah yes, the completely unique to Tesla problem of checks notes a dead 12v battery and an owner who doesn’t know how or care to service their vehicle.

Either way you’re replacing the 12v battery before you’re driving anywhere, Tesla or otherwise. Having a manual lock may be nicer for easier access under the hood in this case, but that’s really it. Other automakers EVs also have issues with their 12v systems dying and bricking the cars until replaced, Hyundai’s come to mind specifically. Newer Teslas have a lithium-ion low voltage battery (it’s like 15v or something i think?) that shouldn’t fail for the life of the car, so this is a non-issue.

If he ever read the manual for the car (no one ever does! they should!) he’d know you can remove the tow hook cover and connect a battery to the wires to open the frunk, then replace the 12v battery yourself if you’d like. Or if that’s too complicated, have it towed to a service center or mobile service fix it for you.

It’s just a car! Fix it yourself or take it to service! Why is this news?