Somehow the electric connection had fallen out of the bracket. Had to disassemble and reassemble some bits but really, maybe 3 months of mild irritation and in the end it took maybe 20 minutes to fix. There’s a lesson I don’t want to learn somewhere in there…

    • FauxLiving@lemmy.world
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      3 months ago

      Well, no more than once every 6 months anyway. The world needs a lot of fixing and my brain can only remember so much.

  • paper_moon@lemmy.world
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    3 months ago

    Same thing, window button for drivers window in my old mazda stopped working reliably, it would take a bunch of clicks and sometimes randomly would finally put the window back up. I let it go for like 6 months, finally got frustrated enough to remove the module, pry the button up, scratch off the carbon build up on the electric pad, put everything back together, and boom works fine now. Another 20 minute fix after months of frustration.

  • djmikeale@feddit.dk
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    3 months ago

    Are these the “standard” to have in the US? In Denmark I feel like almost all stoves use induction, and I’ve never seen ones with this design here, but they seem pretty normal to have in US.

    • SubArcticTundra@lemmy.ml
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      3 months ago

      I guess it depends how often people replace their cookers. We had one in the UK when I was little bit it was from the 80s

      • turboSnail@piefed.europe.pub
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        3 months ago

        My kitchen was originally built in the 70s. Some of the furniture is still original too. I think my stove + oven combo is original as well. Definitely looks very 70s to me. It’s an electric device, so the dials and electrons are the only moving parts. Not that many things can break in a setup like this.

          • turboSnail@piefed.europe.pub
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            3 months ago

            It uses electricity to make heat. That’s the one conversion where you can expect approximately 100% efficiency.

            Modern stoves have fancy safety features and a flat glass top to make it look nicer. I don’t think the efficiency has gone up in the past 50 years.

    • MyBrainHurts@piefed.caOP
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      3 months ago

      I’m in an older (1970s?) Canadian apartment where the motto is “death before replacements or upgrades.” I do see it reasonably often in older buildings, not so often in modern ones.

  • idunnololz@lemmy.world
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    3 months ago

    I swapped out all the coils and drip pans last summer. I didnt realize you can just tug on the coil and it just comes off. Game changer.

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    3 months ago

    It’s possible for the switch behind the knob to fail. They’re called selector switches or rotary switches (https://duckduckgo.com/?q=stove+rotary+switch). In my case, some plastic from the casing melted and became a conductor, so the element could not be turned down or turned off. This is also an easy replacement.

    Turn off the breaker, unplug from outlet, open up the back of the stove/oven (take a pic or mark the wires to remember where they go), remove the offending switch and look for a model number on it so you can search for and order a replacement online. All I needed was a phillips screwdriver. You can still use the rest of the stove top elements without the broken switch until your replacement arrives.

  • Bluefruit@lemmy.world
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    3 months ago

    Theres always something like that to fix man. Some things just take priority, then when you have the time, the energy, and the money in some cases, you fix it.

  • varyingExpertise@feddit.org
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    3 months ago

    “Fell out of” doesn’t sound great for something that regularly shovels quite a bit of amps. Are the other ones properly connected?

  • toynbee@lemmy.world
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    3 months ago

    That’s how we got Captain America’s shield.

    Jokes and references aside … Well done.

  • BarneyPiccolo@lemmy.today
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    3 months ago

    I’m an expert at fixing washers and dryers. Not the mechanics of the drums and such, that’s real work, but that doesn’t break too often. It’s usually the circuit board/switch behind the big button.

    Take off the covers, take pictures of the switch from every angle, and go look up the part number and model on Google. You’ll find it somewhere, possibly even Amazon. Carefully compare it to the pictures and order it.

    When it arrives, pull out one plug on the circuit board and replace it, and do that with each plug, referring to your photos. Then comes the hard job of putting it all back together properly.

    I just did it for my mom’s dryer. The service call, parts, and labor would have cost more than a new dryer. My repair was $145 for the part, which is already too expensive.

    It’s never failed to work for me, and my wife is always amazed at any sign of competency from me. It usually gets me about 2 hours of goodwill until we’re back to normal, and I’m a moron again.